How to Visit Vesuvius and Herculaneum in One Day
- Amanda Vosloh-Tedford
- Apr 10, 2024
- 19 min read
Updated: Feb 4
Planning a trip to Naples brings with it a myriad of exciting possibilities, from indulging in authentic Neapolitan cuisine to exploring ancient ruins steeped in history. Among the must-see destinations in the region are Mount Vesuvius and the ancient city of Herculaneum. However, when I began researching our itinerary, I faced a common dilemma: how to efficiently visit both sites in just one day.
Despite the abundance of resources available for exploring Mount Vesuvius and Pompeii in a single outing, information on combining a visit to Vesuvius with Herculaneum was scarce. Most itineraries I came across recommended pairing Mount Vesuvius with Pompeii, but this option often resulted in limited time to fully explore the vast archaeological site of Pompeii. As Pompeii is much bigger than Herculaneum, this just didn't make sense to me - especially because Herculaneum is so much closer to the volcano. Not only do you have less opportunity to enjoy Pompeii, but you ultimately lose even more time traveling between the two sites.
Recognizing the need for a comprehensive guide tailored specifically to visiting Vesuvius and Herculaneum in one day, I will attempt to fill this gap. This blog post starts with a detailed overview of both destinations, providing insight into their historical significance and cultural importance. From the eruption of Mount Vesuvius in 79 AD that buried the ancient city of Pompeii to the remarkably preserved ruins of Herculaneum, each site offers a unique glimpse into the past.
I'll also address various practical considerations, such as transportation options, ticketing information, and suggested itineraries. While there are several ways to make a trip like this work, the this post outlines an option that worked well for our travel purposes.
Furthermore, I address the challenge of time management, offering strategies to maximize your visit and ensure you make the most of every moment spent exploring these remarkable sites. By prioritizing key highlights and structuring your itinerary effectively, you can optimize your experience and create lasting memories of your day at Vesuvius and Herculaneum.
Ultimately, this blog serves as a comprehensive resource for travelers seeking to embark on a day trip to Mount Vesuvius and Herculaneum. Whether you're a history enthusiast eager to uncover ancient ruins or simply seeking adventure amidst breathtaking landscapes, our guide will equip you with the tools and knowledge necessary to navigate these iconic destinations with confidence and ease. Prepare to embark on an unforgettable journey through time and discover the wonders of Southern Italy's storied past.
Visiting Vesuvius and Herculaneum in One Day
About Mount Vesuvius
Situated in the gorgeous Bay of Naples, Italy, Mount Vesuvius silently guards the surrounding ancient cities of Pompeii and Herculaneum. With a millennium-long history, Vesuvius has been crucial in determining the topography of the Compania region.
The most infamous chapter in Vesuvius's history unfolded on August 24, 79 AD, when the volcano erupted with catastrophic force. The eruption, one of the most devastating in recorded history, unleashed a deadly combination of ash, pumice, and volcanic gas, burying the bustling Roman city of Pompeii and the lesser-known neighboring town of Herculaneum beneath a thick layer of volcanic debris. The eruption's impact was swift and merciless, resulting in the deaths of thousands and freezing the two cities in time, preserving them for centuries to come.
The archaeological excavations of Pompeii and Herculaneum have provided invaluable insights into ancient Roman life, offering a window into the past that continues to captivate scholars and visitors alike. From remarkably preserved frescoes and mosaics to everyday artifacts and infrastructure, these sites offer a vivid glimpse into the daily lives of their inhabitants before the eruption brought their world to an abrupt end.
Mount Vesuvius remains an active volcano to this day, serving as a constant reminder of the power and unpredictability of nature. While its slopes are now dotted with vineyards and lush vegetation, the threat of another eruption looms ever-present, casting a shadow of uncertainty over the surrounding landscape.
For visitors to the region, Mount Vesuvius offers a unique opportunity to witness firsthand the forces that have shaped the history and landscape of Southern Italy. Whether exploring the ruins of Pompeii and Herculaneum or marveling at the majesty of the volcano itself, a visit to Mount Vesuvius promises a journey through time and a deeper understanding of the enduring legacy of one of the world's most iconic natural wonders.
Although we opted to visit Mount Vesuvius on our own, there are many guided tours and associated activities available if this is your preference.
About Herculaneum
Herculaneum, located in modern day Ercolano at the foot of Mount Vesuvius, is a reminder of the ancient world's lasting influence. This once-thriving Roman town was founded by the Greeks in the sixth century BC. It flourished as a wealthy coastal resort and commercial hub, attracting wealthy patrons who constructed opulent houses covered with elaborate mosaics and paintings.
However, Herculaneum's fate was irrevocably altered when Mount Vesuvius erupted, burying the city beneath a thick layer of volcanic ash. Like its more famous neighbor Pompeii, Herculaneum lay forgotten beneath the earth for centuries until its rediscovery in the 18th century. Notably, Herculaneum's close proximity to Vesuvius actually resulted in better preservation overall - the city was affectively vacuum sealed below the debris.
Today, tourists can explore the amazing ruins of Herculaneum and marvel at the colorful artwork, sophisticated architecture, and common objects that provide insight into the lives of the city's residents prior to the eruption. Herculaneum's archeological riches, which range from the sumptuous House of the Deer to the eerily preserved skeletons of victims taking refuge in boat sheds along the waterfront, serve as a sobering reminder of the frailty of human existence in the face of natural calamity.
For those planning to visit both Herculaneum and Pompeii, I highly recommend starting with Herculaneum. Unlike Pompeii, which sprawls over a vast area and can be overwhelming to explore in its entirety, Herculaneum is smaller in scale and more manageable to navigate. With the aid of the paid audio guide provided on site, visitors can gain valuable insights into the history and significance of Herculaneum, laying the groundwork for a deeper appreciation of Pompeii's archaeological wonders during a subsequent visit.
Again, while we chose to explore Herculaneum without a guide, there are several tours available that may be of interest.
Recommended Itinerary
Arrive at Circumvesuviana Porta Nolana Train Station *Train departure times will vary, but this should provide ample time to buy tickets | 7:45am |
Ride Approximately 20 Minutes | |
Exit Train at Ercolano Scavi Station | |
Check In w/ Vesuvio Express Ticketing Office Outside | |
Take Vesuvio Express Bus to Mount Vesuvius | 9:10am |
Visit Vesuvius National Park (approximately 3 hrs) | |
Walk 10 Minutes to Archaeological Park of Herculaneum | 12:10pm |
Picnic / Take-Away Lunch | 12:30pm |
Enter Herculaneum Ruins | 1:00pm |
Exit Herculaneum Ruins | 5:00pm |
Walk 10 Minutes to Ercolano Scavi Train Station *Train departure times will vary | |
Ride Approximately 20 Minutes | |
Exit Train at Porta Nolana or Garibaldi Station |
Transportation to Ercolano
I find public transportation in and around Naples to be quite confusing. In fact, I wrote an entire article about this and how to navigate some of the various difficulties already. You can find it here.
Although there are many ways to travel from Naples to Ercolano, where Mount Vesuvius and Herculaneum are located, I'm going to share the method we used. It's relatively straight forward and inexpensive compared to all other options I considered before our trip.
Circumvesuviana Trains
We used Circumvesuviana, which is a regional network of train lines that run east out of Naples to various cities around Mount Vesuvius - namely Ercolano (Herculaneum) and Pompeii. Although not relevant to this particular day trip, it's worth noting that Circumvesuviana is one of three networks managed by EAV. This information may come in handy when planning your vacation to Naples overall.
Based on my research, Circumvesuviana is the cheapest way to travel to several key cities outside of Naples. It's important to realize, however, that this train system is not part of the Italian National Rail Network. As a result, it's not possible to purchase tickets in advance via any of the online platforms.
You should also know that Circumvesuviana are popular commuter and tourist trains, so they are often crowded. This is especially true during high-traffic hours. The trains are also quite old and there's no reserved seating.
Buying Tickets
While most online information I found about purchasing Circumvesuviana tickets states that they accept cash only, this was not our experience. Three of the four station attendants we bought from during our trip accepted credit cards. Interestingly, the one who required a cash payment was in the same booth where we purchased using a card just one day prior.
My best guess is that they do accept credit card payments, but that their readers are unreliable. Alternatively, they may accept credit card payments for tickets to particular destinations or when the total is above a certain amount.
Regardless, I do recommend bringing cash as a backup when traveling on the Circumvesuviana trains. You may or may not not need it, however.
All tickets must be purchased from attendant booths at the stations in person.
Ticket prices vary depending on your starting and ending destinations. From Naples to Sorrento (the beginning and end of the line), it costs €4.60 per person. Although you'll still need to purchase a return ticket, this is extremely reasonable for a 70-minute train ride. You'll pay less when traveling to Ercolano.
Safety
Circumvesuviana has gained a relatively bad reputation. Many articles I've read say that these trains were unsafe, rife with pickpockets and other undesirables. Although I only used them for a couple days during the off-season, this was not at all my experience or the experience of others I've spoken with.
As previously mentioned, the trains are older and they can get crowded - but at no point did I feel unsafe riding them. In fact, the majority of the time we were surrounded by other tourists. There were definitely locals present, but everyone we interacted with was very kind and helpful.
That isn't to say that there were no pickpockets. Indeed, I'm sure there were some! But let's be fair and acknowledge that thievery is a risk everywhere, particularly in large cities like Naples. You'll need to be careful with your belongings no matter what train you use. See my recommendations for this below.
Station Information
There are two Circumvesuviana stations in Naples: Porta Nolana and Garibaldi (which is located in the lower level of Napoli Centrale).
I recommend using Porta Nolana, if possible. It is the end/beginning of the line and seemingly a little less busy. As a result, starting your journey at Porta Nolana increases the likelihood that you'll have seats.
Garibaldi, on the other, was much busier. It was at this station that I noticed the majority of passengers entering on the way to Ercolano (Herculaneum). During the return tip, this is also where most people disembarked.
Travel Instructions to Ercolano
Again, we chose to leave from Porta Nolana in order to beat the crowds and ensure we had seats throughout the journey.
You can find the station using your GPS. I had no trouble bringing it up on Google Maps and it took us right to the front of the building.
From here, you'll want to head to the right side of the building around the buses. The left side is comprised of mostly administrative offices.
The area was pretty busy, so it can be easy to miss the signs directing you to the ticketing booths. You should come to a set of stairs going down to the platforms. Take these and turn left at the bottom.
Purchasing tickets wasn't too difficult...although I made it much more stressful than it should have been.
While the attendant we interacted with did not speak fluent English, we were able to communicate sufficiently. I told him where we were going and how many people were traveling; he told us the price, took payment via credit card, and gave the tickets to us. Easy-peasy!
Trouble is, I confused the situation by saying we were going to Sorrento, not Ercolano. The reason for this is that all the information I found beforehand indicated that Ercolano and Pompeii were just stops along the route to Sorrento. While this is technically true, not every train actually STOPS at all locations along the way! They do this to make some trips shorter and more direct than others.
Fortunately, we were early and had time to get this sorted out. Although we did pay a little more than we should have for a trip to Ercolano, one of the workers told us which train platform was the correct one.
Still, there was no information posted about which stops the train made and the one we were directed to wasn't heading to a destination I was familiar with. This caused our party, and many other tourists on the platforms, a bit of undo stress. We were all milling around aimlessly for quite some time!
This resulted in me double (triple, and even quadruple) checking with other attendants to ensure we were in the right place.
Once you get rolling, the train from Naples Porta Nolana to Ercolano will take about 20 minutes.
You'll need to pay attention to announcements along the way to ensure you know when to exit the train. The stop for Vesuvius and Herculaneum is Ercolano Scavi.
Getting to Vesuvius National Park
While there are numerous transport methods from Ercolano to Vesuvius National Park, we used Vesuvio Express. Their service was convenient and comparatively inexpensive.
Upon exiting the Ercolano Scavi train station, their ticketing office is on the left. You can see it from the stairs.
Vesuvio Express provides round-trip transportation to the Vesuvius park entrance for €12 per person. Note that this does not include admittance to the Vesuvius National Park. It is possible to purchase a combination ticket, however, for €30. Both options are available to buy in person on the day of your visit, assuming they aren't fully booked.
While convenient, it's worth noting that the combination ticket is more expensive than making the reservations separately.
Ultimately, we opted to pre-purchase transportation only with Vesuvio Express. This option is less obvious on their website, however; simply scroll down and click "Buy Now" to access it.
We then bought our Mount Vesuvius tickets directly from the park website. Full price entrance is €11,68 per person. Vesuvius tickets must be purchased online in advance, as there is no option to buy them in person and phone service is generally too poor to complete the order after arrival. You'll need to register with Vivaticket in order to complete your purchase, which is a bit of a hassle but simple enough.
Although the park ticket is for a specific time, you can enter 40 minutes early and up to 100 minutes afterward - this makes it fairly easy to align with the Vesuvio Express timetable.
Overall, this decision saved us €6,32 each.
Now, a few words about the Vesuvio Express service.
While I generally recommend using Vesuvio Express, there are a couple things you should be aware of beforehand.
The times posted on their website may not be accurate. Either they advertise earlier departures or they regularly run behind. While the first available timeslot listed is 9:10am, we were informed that the bus wasn't actually leaving until 9:30am. Based on reviews, this is a common occurrence. It didn't drastically impact our plans, but is worth keeping in mind.
The bigger issue is that Vesuvio Express commonly misleads visitors regarding the amount of time they are allowed on the mountain. According to the website (and the desk attendant I spoke with), the entire trip should take approximately 3 hours. This includes a 30-minute drive up, 2 hours in the park, and a 30-minute drive back. However, it's apparently common for the drivers to cut your free-time at the volcano short. While we were able to make this work, I was displeased with the development - especially because I had just confirmed timing with the worker in the office before leaving. According to reviews, this seems to happen regularly and can present significant disappointment for travelers.
Overall, I still think Vesuvio Express is a convenient and inexpensive transportation method from Ercolano to Mount Vesuvius. It is important, however, to strategically purchase your park tickets with a potential late departure in mind and to expect less time for independent exploration at the crater.
Visiting Mount Vesuvius
I mentioned above that transportation to the Vesuvius National Park entrance via Vesuvio Express takes about half an hour. What I didn't say is that the ride up and down the mountain is a pretty wild ride!
Vesuvio Express uses both taxi vans and buses, depending on the number of bookings. We were in a van, for which I think I'm glad? The roads are steep and winding, essentially switchbacking all the way up. Although the drivers obviously know what they're doing, some of the curves had me tense. We made it without incident, but you may want to take some Dramamine beforehand if you get carsick easily.
You can literally hear the vehicle creaking!
At the top, you'll find a relatively small parking area with several market stalls set up. It was here that our driver informed us that we needed to return within 1 hour and 40 minutes - not the 2 hours advertised online and confirmed by the desk attendant in Ercolano. With this in mind, we opted to skip visiting the stalls until later. (Consequently, this meant we didn't actually get to spend any time looking at them).
Beyond the parking area is the official Vesuvius National Park entrance. I recommend heading straight there, especially if there are tour groups gathering; we got stuck in the middle of a school group and had to wait for all 75 of them to scan their tickets.
A short walk from here is a small covered building where we were created by a park worker. He advised that the weather was quite poor, but that they were hopeful it would improve soon. As you'll see from my photos, it did briefly but was mostly very overcast. This is a relatively common occurrence, especially during the fall and winter.
*Travel Tip: If you want to ensure you visit Vesuvius on a sunny day, don't pre-book any of your tickets. Although it costs a little more, purchase the combination transport and admission ticket from Vesuvio Express in person on the day. This way you can confirm the weather is clear first.
The worker also informed us that the park provided free tours around the crater every 20 minutes or so, assuming there were enough people present. This is highly recommended on cloudy days, as the views can be disappointing. The meeting point for these tours is at the next building you come to after ascending the mountain.
After this short briefing (which was provided in English), you're free to begin your hike up!
The climb from the entrance to the crater isn't terrible, but I wouldn't call it easy either. In total, it took me 18 minutes at a slow but steady trudge. My husband could have completed it much faster, but he stayed behind with my nephew (who was a little slower). I think most people can probably manage to reach the first part of the crater in about 20 to 30 minutes.
Notably, I didn't stop along the way although there were a few benches and photo opportunities. With the dense fog, however, I didn't see much point in delaying my ascent.
Although the lack of views was disappointing, you can't control the weather. Besides, the fog provided a natural eeriness to the experience that I ultimately enjoyed quite a lot.
Furthermore, the weather on the mountain can change quick quickly! By the time I reached the tour guide building, the sun was occasionally peaking through the gloom!
At this point, it's important to realize that the trail continues around the crater for some distance. There are a few viewpoints, as well as buildings with vendors selling refreshments and souvenirs along the way.
Although I was interested in the free tour, the timing didn't match up with my arrival. Instead of waiting, I recommend continuing on the path to ensure you reach the end. While the trail doesn't go all the way around the crater, I think the best photo opportunities are further along.
Fortunately, the weather also seemed to improve as I progressed!
I didn't time myself after reaching the tour guide station, but I'd estimate that it took me another 10-15 minutes to reach the furthest point on the trail. With Vesuvio Express cutting our time short, I was relatively anxious about the time.
In total, I think I spent about an hour moving around the crater. I certainly could have used more, but this was sufficient to explore, take pictures, and shop for a few goodies.
I spent the majority of my time at the end of the line, where there is yet another small building with refreshments and vendors.
By this time, the weather had mostly cleared and I was able to get some of my best photographs!
Sadly, this break in the fog was short lived. By the time my husband and nephew caught up to me, the clouds had returned. Despite this, we still greatly enjoyed our time at the top of Mount Vesuvius. In fact, Michael even surprised me with a small bottle of prosecco to celebrate the occasion!
Obviously, you'll want to keep an eye on the time. We decided to start our descent to the car park with about 30 minutes remaining. This was almost perfect; we made it back to the Vesuvio Express van with a few minutes to spare.
A 30-minute ride back down the mountain and you'll be dropped off near your original departure point at the Ercolano Scavi train station!
Visiting Herculaneum
Visiting Herculaneum is no small venture; the outing definitely deserves it's own full article - which I will write soon. In the meantime, here's a condensed overview of what to expect!
From the Ercolano Scavi train station, it's about a 5-10 minute walk down hill to the Herculaneum entrance. As it was around noon, we grabbed some pizzas for take-away along the route. There are plenty of places to stop, but we opted to eat outside near the Herculaneum archway.
This picturesque arch isn't actually the entrance to the ruins, however. You'll still need to cross a bridge (which goes over part of the ancient city) and walk through a small park before reaching the official admissions building.
While you can purchase tickets in advance online, there really isn't any reason to. Herculaneum is far less popular than Pompeii, so they rarely sell out the individual timeslots. I wasn't sure exactly what time we'd get back from our trip to Vesuvius, so we intentionally planned to purchase tickets upon arrival. This worked out great. There wasn't even a line!
As of March 2024, Herculaneum ticket cost €13 per person.
Restrooms are also available here, but food is not allowed inside the city. This means you'll need to finish whatever you bring or purchased along the way before entering.
You can also rent audio guides for €8 on the other side of the building. An ID is required as collateral and discounts apply when getting more than one unit. Although headphones are not required (or provided), you can bring your own. Only wired headphones will work, however, as there is no Bluetooth compatibility. This does allow for sharing if you're willing to be up close and personal with your partner.
Although I highly recommend getting the audio guide, I don't actually encourage sharing sets with others. My husband and I struggled a bit with this. It's doable, but doesn't allow much freedom moving around the site.
It's also worth noting that the current entrance puts you on the opposite end of where the audio guide starts. Once you cross the bridge into the ruins, you'll want to start by playing the final sections on the headset (numbers in the 40s). Buildings are marked and there's a map on the audio guide.
I suggest spending at least 4 hours in Herculaneum, though you could certainly speed through faster than this or take much longer to see all the sights.
As I mentioned, I plan on writing a more comprehensive guide to visiting the ruins in the future, which I will link here. Until then, here are a few highlights you simply don't want to miss!
Casa di Nettuno e Anfritite (House of Neptune and Amphitrite)
Casa dello Scheletro (House of the Skeleton)
Terme del Foro (Thermal Baths Men's Side)
Terme del Foro (Thermal Baths Women's Side)
Sede degli Augustali (Hall of the Augustals)
Pistrinum (Bakery)
Thermopoliums (Restaurants)
Fornici (Boathouses)
Casa di Nettuno e Anfritite (House of Neptune and Amphitrite)
Casa dello Scheletro (House of the Skeleton)
Terme del Foro (Thermal Baths Men's Side)
Terme del Foro (Thermal Baths Women's Side)
Sede degli Augustali (Hall of the Augustals)
Pistrinum (Bakery)
Casa del Rilievo di Telefo (House of the Relief of Telephus)
Thermopoliums (Cook Shops)
Fornici (Boathouses)
There is so much more to see, but these were some of our favorites!
Watch the time throughout your visit, as it's easy to linger in certain areas for a long time. If you're not careful, you'll lose track and may not be able to see everything. You'll also need to return your audio guide set if you rented one.
Additionally, be sure to leave a little time to peruse the Herculaneum gift shop. There isn't a large selection, but I still found it worth a quick gander.
Once you're done in exploring the ruins and are ready to leave, head back up to the train station via the same route you used earlier in the day.
Returning to Naples
Fortunately, returning to Naples from Ercolano via Circumvesuviana is extremely easy. Simply enter the station exactly where you exited it.
The ticketing booth is on the right. Again, the attendant knew enough English to make the buying process a breeze. We stated we needed three tickets back to Napoli (Italian for Naples) and were good to go. We paid €2,60 per person using a credit card.
The next departure time was clearly displayed on the mounted monitor and we followed signs for the appropriate platform.
Notably, the return train made significantly fewer stops, so the trip was a little shorter. It was, however, a little more crowded than in the morning. We still managed to acquire seats partway through the journey.
While you can exit at the Garibaldi or Porta Nolana stations, it was most convenient for us to utilize Porta Nolana.
General Recommendations
Fog and colder temperatures are common on Mount Vesuvius, so wear/bring appropriate clothing. While it didn't rain during our visit, I was happy to have my rain jacket with me.
Do any of your Ercolano shopping early in the day. Most of the tourist shops and restaurants will be closed during your return to the train station. This is because most business owners and workers take short breaks before dinner.
Above all else, make sure you bring or invest in good shoes for yoru trop to Italy! Walking around Naples, Vesuvius, and Herculaneum makes for a long, hard day on your feet. These Karrimor Weathertite shoes are a good buy and have served me well on my travels, but find walking shoes to suit your needs and style!
Use shoe inserts. I was so thankful to have additional cushioning from insoles like these!
Keep your belongings protected throughout the day. The below purchases work really well for us: Phone Lanyards I've used a phone lanyard like this one on every trip since we visited Barcelona earlier this year! My husband opted for a simpler version, but also uses it regularly now. I think they're great, even for shorter day outings!
RFID Card Protectors
There are a lot of options out there, but my husband and I use blocking cards like these. We also purchased blocking sleeves like these.
Baggage Locks
I've mentioned a couple times that I like to use a drawstring bag as a "purse" when traveling. It's comfortable, secure, and spacious. When I feel a little extra protection may be needed, I put one of these cute cow locks around the top.
Take extra preclusions with your belongings when using public transportation. I tend to turn my bag around so it's hanging against the front of my body before boarding. This ensures no one can rummage around in it without me noticing. I also tie off any shopping bags and ensure my phone is secured. If I'm waring my raincoat, I also zip my pockets to protect whatever is inside them.
Don't keep all your money in one place. This is easily achieved by leaving some amount of cash at your accommodation while out exploring, or having an extra credit card hidden somewhere in your luggage. If you are the victim of theft, at least you'll still have some access to your finances during the remainder of your trip.
Similarly, don't carry your passport on your person while out and about in the city. Instead, take a picture and save it to your phone. In most cases, showing the image will suffice - although I've never needed it at all after reaching my destination. Again, if something is stolen, this important document won't be lost and you'll still be able to get home easily.
Be prepared to take a LOT of pictures. This is not an exaggeration; I took over 1,000 photos while visiting Vesuvius and Herculaneum. I use the Nikon D7000 digital SLR with either a 18-55mm lens or 55-200mm lens. Amazon also has a comparable Canon EOS Rebel T7 DSLR camera, which comes with two lenses and a carry bag.
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